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Scotland's colourful
and turbulent history is well represented
around the fringes of the Galloway
Hills, but seldom did anything of
note occur within their bleak confines.
The first hunter-gatherers settled along
the coastal margins so that they could
live off the produce of both the land
and the sea. The hills will have been
clothed in their original wildwoods, with
swampy areas and wild beasts. Although
a horde of Bronze Age implements was found
on the Fell of Eschoncan, there are no
traces of any hill forts or permanent
settlements. There is however, a reconstructed
Romano-British house near Clatteringshaws
Loch. Although Whithorn and Galloway are
associated with the dawning of Christianity
in Scotland, all the old churches and
big abbeys are located some distance from
the hills.
We're well into historical
times before there are truly momentous
happenings on the hills. Robert the Bruce
and his tiny army of a few hundred were
hemmed into these wild hills by thousands
of English troops. The Bruce had killed
Red Comyn and hastily assumed kingship.
Despite early successes he was later forced
to flee for his life, then had difficulty
raising an army. He embarked on a campaign
of guerilla warfare from the hills, where
he used the rocky, boggy terrain to his
advantage in 1307. With each success he
was able to break from the hills and extend
his campaign throughout Scotland, finally
thrashing the English at Bannockburn in
1314.
In the turbulent years
of the 'Killing Times' through the latter
half of the 1600s, the hills again provided
a refuge and safe haven for people fleeing
religious persecution. Furious debates
had centred on the need for bishops in
the Scottish church, and the extent of
authority the king should wield. Fiery
preachers sprang up and some clerics were
ousted from their parishes, and as dissent
was punishable by heavy fines, imprisonment,
torture or death, secret 'conventicles'
were held in the hills. Even so, some
people were killed while attending these
prayer meetings in the hills and there
are monuments to the 'Covenanters' all
over Galloway. There's a story behind
every monument and the victims are widely
regarded as martyrs.
A novel called 'The Raiders'
by S R Crockett again focuses our attention
on the hills. Although fact and fiction
are woven together in the story, these
hills really were used as a hideaway for
fierce gypsy clans - notably the Faas,
Marshalls and Macatericks. They seem to
have lived by raiding cattle and stealing
goods from their neighbours. The most
colourful character in those times was
surely Billy Marshall, widley regarded
as the gypsy 'king'. He is repurted to
have lived for 120 years, dying in 1792.
Many stories are told about him throughout
the region and they surely contain at
least a grain of truth.
The few farms that ever
managed to eke an existence out of the
wild interior of the Galloway Hills were
abandoned and falling ruinous by 1900.
The land came into the hands of the Forestry
Commission and sheep rearing was replaced
by timber growing. The planting started
in 1922, so some stands are coming into
maturity and are being clear felled. Replanting
is taking place so that timber can be
harvested in the future.
GALLOWAY FOREST PARK
The Galloway Forest Park covers much of
the Forestry Commission's holdings in
the Galloway Hills.
Some 250 square miles (670 sq km) of land
was designated as a Forest Park in 1943.
Although the Forestry Commission's primary
purpose is to produce timber, not all
the land has been planted. There are no
plantations on the highest hills, where
the trees simply do not thrive, nor have
all the boggy valleys been planted, even
though they would support forest cover.
The needs of conservation
and recreation have been recognised and
the Forestry Commission have provided
some basic amenities and interpretative
facilities for visitors, as well as allowing
virtually free access on foot.
In recent years the visitor
centres at Kirroughtree, Clatteringshaws
and Stroan Bridge have been developed
to provide first class facilities in the
heart of the park.
The 7 Stanes, Extreme
Mountain Bike routes at Dalbeattie and
Kirroughtree provide an exhilarating experience
for experienced riders as well as more
sedate options suited to families or less
ambitious cyclists.
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