:: Wednesday 16th May

THE RHINNS OF KELLS

This superb high-level route follows the long undulating ridgeline over the peaks that make up the Rhinns of Kells, from Coran of Portmark in the north to Meikle Millyea in the south.

The walk, which is one of the classic linear walks of the area, and one of the finest in southern Scotland, is made possible by the provision of transport to the start and finish points. It offers some spectacular scenery with views west across Loch Doon and Mulwarchar to the Merrick and the Range of the Awful Hand. To the east we look across Cairnsmore of Carsphairn to the Lowther Hills. Just about all the main hills in Dumfries and Galloway can be seen from the ridge. On a very clear day even Ben Lomond can be spotted far away to the north.

This is a demanding walk as it involves over 1100 metres of ascent and covers a total distance of 21 kilometres. It is suited to the fit and experienced hillwalker but although it is quite arduous most of the ground underfoot is excellent. No scrambling is involved, but there is an awkward section of descent through rough and sometimes rather wet ground towards the end of the day.

As we climb towards our first summit we pass the remains of the Garryhorn lead mines. Although these mines were mostly active in the late nineteenth century, mining continued here well into the twentieth century and a small community was living here until the 1950's. Leaving the ruins behind us we take to the open hillside and head for Coran of Portmark (623 metres) at the northern end of the chain. From here we look down on the waters of Loch Doon, whose history can be traced back over 8000 years to Mesolithic times. We also have our first fine vista across to Shalloch on Minnoch and the Range of the Awful Hand. From Coran of Portmark we follow the grassy ridge over Bow and Meaul, then on to Carlin's Cairn (807 metres).

We descend to the south off Carlin's Cairn, then climb quite steeply up to the trig point on the bare summit plateau of Corserine, (at 814 metres it is one of only three Corbets in Southern Scotland). To the west the remote and rugged interior of the Galloway Hills is spread out before us - a great mountain wilderness with the rocky faces of Hoodens Hill and Mulwarchar in the foreground and beyond them the distinctive profile of the Range of the Awful Hand.

We catch views of Loch Enoch beyond the steep rocky faces of the Dungeon and Craignaw as we continue to a col between Corserine and Milfire. This col provided a route through the mountains from the little croft at Backhill of Bush (which is now a mountain bothy) to the settlements further east. On one occasion in the early years of the twentieth century, a body was being taken by donkey from the Backhill of Bush across this pass to be buried in Dalry. Progress was halted by a blizzard, however, and the body had to be left for three days at the top of the pass until the weather cleared. Far below us to our east, near the Hawse Burn, we can just make out the memorial cairn to Ralph Furlow, a shepherd lad who also died in a blizzard here whilst trying to gather his sheep. Hopefully there will be no blizzards confronting us as we continue on to the rockier slopes of Milldown (738 metres) and then pass the dark waters of the Lochans of Auchniebut before the last short climb of the day onto Meikle Millyea.

We descend quite steeply at times over rough ground on the Meikle Lump to reach a forest track. The estate here is owned by Fred Olsen of shipping fame. Finally we follow the track down over easy ground to our transport, which will take us back to Newton Stewart. Please note that owing to the length of this walk and its distance from Newton Stewart, the start time is earlier than other walks in order to allow plenty of time to return and have a shower and meal before the evening slide show.